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Blackgang Chine and the Island of Dreams (Complete)

Graeme

Mega Poster
Day 1 - Southsea Adventure
Day 2 - Ryde to Godshill
Day 3 - Shanklin Chine
Day 4 - Robin Hill
Day 5 - Blackgang Chine

Day 1 - Southsea Adventure


A Virgin Atlantic jet plane flew low over my head on the M25. I was near Heathrow, which meant one thing - Thorpe Park was up ahead. Sure enough, Stealth and Hyperia came into view. But I couldn’t ride them today; I didn’t have enough time.

I had an SBF Visa with my name on it.

I got to Portsmouth and glided past the wide lawns of Southsea. First, I visited The D-Day Story. My grandad was the electrician on a landing craft in the Royal Navy. He landed on Gold Beach on D-Day and evacuated American troops from Omaha Beach. There is a video clip of him in the engine room of the museum’s own landing craft, but I feel lucky to have heard the anecdotes in person.

After that, I headed to Clarence Pier. The promenade is undergoing a lot of work, and currently the views are quite impeded. The resort was very busy in the blazing May sun.



First up, I tried Mad Mouse, the SBF Visa Cyclon MX49 (their take on the Zyklon/Galaxi). One big drop and two other decent ones, as well as a helix. I thought it was great fun - just the right thrill level for a seaside coaster.



Next, I sampled Tidal Wave, an SBF Visa MX612. This is quite interesting, because it’s like a spinning version of a Wacky Worm, rather than the more typical, figure-eight MX608. The thrill level was certainly more than a Wacky Worm, although I think the back-to-back spinning coasters just aren’t for me. What can I say? A cred’s a cred!



There was one coaster left - the Güven Amusement Rides Factory Runaway Train. The young lad operating the ride asked me if I was riding it for the cred! When I told him I was, we had a good laugh about it.

The only other ride I had time for was the classic Gallopers, on which I rode upon a green-saddled cockerel. They are always the best! I was also tempted to ride the Twister, and even the Canyon River Log Flume looked inviting, but I just didn’t have time.

I have always found Clarence Pier a good place to visit. The staff are friendly and it’s just a hassle-free amusement park. Does what it says on the tin, if you know what I mean?

The best ride of the day, however, was still to come.

I boarded the Victoria of Wight ferry and set off across the Solent. Climbing up onto the top deck, I watched as the hovercraft went by, and viewed the forts used in 1970s episodes of Doctor Who. I was, of course, heading to the Isle of Wight.

Fishbourne came into view, and the leafy shore stretched to the east and west. What would await me on this mysterious isle? Only time would tell…

 
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Day 2 - Ryde to Godshill



After a hot and stuffy night in Newport, I needed some fresh air, so I headed to Ryde. There used to be a tiny Schiff coaster here, but today I wanted to see Appley Tower, a folly built on the promenade. The tower wasn’t open, so I passed the time by viewing some fine Oaks in the seafront park. Soon, it was opening time, so I climbed the tower and surveyed the neat, sandy beaches.

With some bigger plans set for the rest of the week, I thought a good use of the afternoon might be to visit Godshill. On the way, the wooded hills and sunken lanes reminded me of what dramatic scenery the island has. I also passed a man in a MAGA hat.

Godshill itself is a normal village, albeit a stunning one, entirely set up as a tourist attraction. Parking at The Old Smithy, I was pleased to see they still have the Fairy Garden behind it, full of gnomes and suchlike. I was also pleased to see the parking was free! I always think it engenders a feeling of goodwill, thus encouraging visitors to spend more freely on other things.



With this in mind, I felt very inclined to enter the Model Village. A colourful array of plants and shrubs greeted me, which framed the various scenes. It was incredible! I was particularly impressed with the model railway and replica of Shanklin Chine. As I was leaving, I made the staff in the souvenir shop laugh by saying I hadn’t visited since 1989! I found Godshill Model Village to be a very friendly, family-run attraction that makes brilliant use of the space. Highly recommended.



After that, I trekked up to see All Saints Church and the picturesque cottages surrounding it. It was a hot day and I had forgotten my sun hat, so to avoid sunburn I draped my New Forest hoodie over my shoulders and pulled the hood over my head!

Walking back down the hill, I popped into the Model Village shop again for some souvenirs. Earlier, I had told them the Shanklin display was my favourite - another place I hadn’t been to for a long time. They suggested I revisit the real one…

So I did.

Making my way east, it wasn’t long before I was in the real Shanklin. This resort is home to Captain Jack’s Runaway Train - an SBF Visa Double Coaster MX605, and hopefully my fourth coaster of the trip. It actually looked quite good as I peered over the fence, but the park it’s in - Pirates Cove Fun Park - was currently closed, so I would have to try another day.

I got some fish & chips and ate them on the seafront. I sometimes refer to Clacton as a paradise, and on a nice day I’m not really joking, but this place really is. Shanklin has just the right balance of entertainment and beauty. I looked to the south and viewed the cliffs towards Luccombe, which are so dramatic, you really could be in Thailand.

The evening approached, so I headed to Bembridge Bay, which would be my base for the week. Sitting back and relaxing, I prepared for my next adventures. I would need some good rest, as the next day was set to be quite arduous…

 
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Day 3 - Shanklin Chine



Returning to Shanklin, I really wanted to see if I could ride Captain Jack’s Runaway Train. Unfortunately, it was still closed. There are also a couple of crazy golf courses here - one pirate and one dinosaur - but they were also closed.

Instead, I went to see an old favourite of mine - Shanklin Chine. I entered from the seafront and began the steep ascent. A "chine" is a term used in Southern England for a steep-sided gorge formed by water flowing to the sea. And, make no mistake, Shanklin’s is a beauty.



I made my way up past the greenery and waterfalls until I emerged at Shanklin Old Village. I had a plan to walk to Ventnor, but considering the heat, I didn’t think it was a great idea. Thus, I walked back down the chine and to the seafront.

Hoping to ride the coaster, I had one last look at Pirates Cove Fun Park - it was all still closed, so I’d just have to try another time.

With quite a lot of the day left, I decided to head to Freshwater, where there was something I wanted to see. On the way, I saw an enormous shape in the air - it was a White-tailed Eagle!!



I could not resist stopping at Blackgang Chine and walking up to St Catherine’s Oratory. The views over Freshwater Bay were incredible. Is there a better view in England? I reached the top of the hill, the Ordnance Survey trig point and the Oratory itself. This stone tower was apparently once used as a lighthouse, but was unable to prevent the wreck of the Clarendon in 1836. Thus, St Catherine’s Lighthouse was built nearer the cliff. I remember this building from my 1983 childhood holiday, although I don’t know how I got up there, as it’s a heck of a climb!



On the way down, a herd of cows had blocked my way, so I sought an alternative route. They are powerful creatures - if one takes a dislike to you, it’s Game Over! So, I headed down the hill to Blackgang Chine and made the ascent to the car park.



Rather foolishly, I then made my way to Mottistone Gardens and walked up to the Longstone. This is something I didn’t even know existed until I saw it on a Kate Humble documentary! The climb was very steep in the heat, but I did at least select the route through shady woodland.

Frankly, I bit off more than I could chew today. Three steep climbs in the heat is not a good idea - nonetheless, I was pleased I’d done them. Thankfully I had plenty of water, both in my rucksack and in the car.

The sun setting, I headed to Freshwater Bay and located the statue of Jimi Hendrix. In the summer of 1970, Hendrix played the Isle of Wight Festival, and All Along The Watchtower rang out over the island. And for that moment, it was probably the coolest place on the planet.

 
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Day 4 - Robin Hill


If there was one place I wanted to revisit more than any other, it was Robin Hill - somewhere else I hadn’t been to since 1983. I can remember some peacocks, and that’s it. Up until recently, the park was owned by Blackgang Chine. However, they put Robin Hill up for sale in 2023 and the park did not open at all in 2024. Thankfully, it was purchased by new owners and is now open for business again.



Peering over the fence before I went in, I saw the Roll Glider under construction - part of the new Adrenaline Zone climbing area, which is due to open on 6th June. Wow, it’s big! Make no mistake, this is a serious piece of kit. It looked fantastic.

Once through, I headed to the Botswana area and Crocodile Creek. Immediately, I liked the feel of the park - wooded, leafy, and with a plethora of play zones. Some of the animal models are from Blackgang Chine’s old Jungleland, which pleased me.



Crocodile Creek itself consists of six electric-powered boats on a lake. I managed to secure my favourite one - the snake - and set sail on the water. There are several different speed settings, for Forward, Reverse and Stop, as you steer yourself around the lake. I found Crocodile Creek to be absolutely brilliant! I’m a sucker for anything with jungle models, and the steerable boats just add to the fun.

After that, I decided to watch the first Falconry Show of the day. They spend a lot of time with each bird, and so you don’t see them all each session. For this show, the biggest ones they flew were the Black Kites, which were interesting to see as they swooped around the picnic area that I was viewing it from.

I then made my way down through the Water Gardens and Chinese Temple. There is a Crazy Golf course amongst the woods here, decorated with cow models. I believe they are from the small train ride that must have been removed recently when Blackgang Chine abandoned the place.



Emerging into the most open area of the park, I walked through The Parting, which is a sunken walkway through the Lower Valley pond. Time was moving on, so after some lunch, I decided on my next priority - the Snake Slides.



Despite the name, they are not enclosed. These metal slides are on a steep hillside - a four-lane wavy slide and two smaller slides one after another. I climbed to the top of the wavy slide, chose my lane and then… nothing. I came to a complete standstill!

Thinking the other slides might be better, I climbed the stairs again and made my way along a high ridge. I slid down the first slide, which was not all that great, but it took me halfway down. I then entered the lower slide, and this was indeed a good one.



The Toboggan next door closes for lunch, so I had to bide my time. This is a Wiegand Summer Toboggan Run, and certainly one of the bigger ones in the UK.

Lunch break over, I paid my £1.50 (which I don’t think is bad at all) and took my seat. Up the lift hill I went, and soon I was careering down its 440m of trough. It picked up a great speed, which I trimmed slightly before each corner. I thought the Toboggan was absolutely brilliant! Way more fun than many, many coasters I’ve been on.

If I have one constructive… pointer, it’s that there is not much shade in this Lower Valley. Any kind of shelter there would be a help on a day like this.

One thing I really wanted to experience was the Canopy Skywalk, and so I made my way out of the valley and back into the woods. Here, several attractions merge into one. As well as the Canopy Skywalk, there is the Squirrel Run, which is a series of climbing nets.



There is also something called Jungle Heights. Throwing caution to the wind, I climbed through the netted hole and found myself in an infernal maze! Up, down, left, right… there is no direction you cannot go through as you search for the end. At one point, I tripped and rolled down a netted slope! It was hilarious.

Nearing the end of my day, I headed towards the Gift Shop and Exit. There are a couple of other major things I didn’t do - Digger School (where you can operate real diggers) looked great fun, but competes for attention with the Snake Slides and Toboggan. I was also going to give the Glides Indoor Ice Rink a go, but they didn’t have skates in my size.

It had been another very physical day. As well as all the active-type attractions, the park is set on a steep hillside. And with this in mind, the Big Red Tractor Train is very useful if you’re not up for the climb.

There is a very laid-back feel to Robin Hill, though. With friendly staff and a relaxed atmosphere, I had never felt more welcome at a theme or adventure park - it was quite possibly the best day out I ever had. The new owners are successfully doing the thing that so many small theme parks seem to struggle with - making shrewd, affordable purchases that keep things fresh. My verdict on Robin Hill?

Unmissable.
 
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Day 5 - Blackgang Chine



It is no exaggeration to say that Blackgang Chine is one of my favourite places on Earth. From my first visit in 1983, as I passed the Two Smugglers at the entrance, I knew I was somewhere special. I returned in 1989 and was enchanted by the Weather Wizard. And in 2001, I was greatly amused by the Magic Pet Shop, Triassic Club and Rumpus Mansion. It is the only attraction that I’ve visited on every trip to the island, and I was about to begin my fourth visit.



I was greeted by the Giant Smuggler at the entrance, as well as the “Angry Dragon” that has been moved outside the park. The entrance to Blackgang is my favourite theme park entrance - a lengthy hut housing a gift shop that sells all manner of souvenirs. Once through, you are into a different world.

My first impression was that everything is very squashed towards the entrance now. I decided to enter Restricted Area 5 first, as if there’s one thing Blackgang has always been about for me, it’s dinosaurs. I made my way down the wooden walkways, which are a clever way of getting you down some quite steep terrain. The animatronic dinosaur models here are superb, especially the Triceratops, Brachiosaurus and T-Rex (although the latter wasn’t working). I was disappointed not to see the Stegosaur and some of the other models they used to have (as well as some better views), but I guess I wasn’t quick enough. Blackgang Chine is always changing, and if you snooze, you lose. Thankfully the squirting Dilophosaur was turned off!



If I wanted to get wet, though, there was plenty of water flying about in Pirate Cove (the former Adventureland)! I, however, was more interested in the Jolly Robin, a Zamperla Pirate Ship relocated from Robin Hill. Sitting in the back seat, I was surprised that this was very, very good, with plenty of airtime.



There is also Extinction, a Zamperla 360-degree pendulum swing. It seems there are two queues - one for the inverting cycle, and one for the non-inverting (120-degrees), but I only had time to watch the former in action. It is strange for me to see something this thrilling at the park. How times change!



Whilst in this area, I made sure to do a few of the other attractions. The Crooked House is much more cartoony than it used to be, full of 2D cut-outs. I can understand why they’ve done this, as some of the old scenes were a little bit creepy. It reminds me of how Adventure Island, Southend, has made everything very cartoony as well. I also had a quick look in two attractions where you press buttons to make animatronics move and sing. The Musical Pet Shop was working quite well, whereas with Dodo Valley, only some of the scenes worked.

One of the things I was most interested in seeing for the first time was Underwater Kingdom, so I made my way there. The entrance used to be the Smugglers’ Cave, which told the story of the wreck of the Clarendon, but is now a watery-themed tunnel with a wobbly, wooden floor. The general area used to be one of my favourites - Fantasyland, home to the Weather Wizard. Underwater Kingdom itself is full of various aquatic models - crabs, eels and the like. I believe some of them were meant to move, but none of them were working today. The lifesize Blue Whale, though, was very impressive.

After that I headed to Cowboy Town, a replacement for the much lower-down Buffalo Creek. Full of models and buildings, this is really very good, although somewhat noisy as the shop sells cap guns and an endless supply of Fun Snaps - I kept treading on the bloomin’ things!

I had spent a while in Blackgang Chine and I had to face an uncomfortable reality - I wasn’t feeling it. The magic feel had still been there even in 2001 when I was in my 20s, but something was missing today.

I was, however, about to enjoy the day a lot more.

I encountered the giant Snakes & Ladders attraction, which for some reason I had not been able to access before. It is an array of several metal slides that you can do in any order. I climbed the stairs, selected the biggest slide and… it was excellent! One of them was particularly slow, but at least two of the others were decent as well.

Behind Snakes & Ladders is Fairyland, which I had a quick look in just to see the castle. It is very similar to the one in my 1983 photos.

Leaving this eastern part of the park, I decided to go on the rides in the area known as Blackgang Beach. First of which was Pirate Barrels - a 2H Design Junior Teacups. I found this to be a very pleasant ride, with a great operator who really got into the theme!

Next, I had a go on the giant water pillow, which is on the site of the old Cliffhanger coaster. Robin Hill actually has three of these, but I didn’t try any on the day. I’m glad I went on this, though, as it was good fun.



The best ride, though, is surely Waterforce - a Van Egdom Dinghy Slide consisting of two open lanes and one enclosed. I climbed the ramps and selected the enclosed slide known as the Plughole. Down I went through the pitch black, with only glimpses of light as I went over each bump. It was brilliant!

Believe it or not, there used to be three paid attractions at Blackgang Chine - the main theme park, Blackgang Sawmill and St Catherine’s Quay. So much of the cliff has disappeared, though, it is now all rolled into one. Whereas the Sawmill made way for Waterforce, you can now enter the old St Catherine’s Quay building at the back of Blackgang Beach. I went in because there was something I hadn’t seen for a long time - the Fin Whale. This skeleton is from a whale that was washed up near the Needles in 1842. It was quite something to be in its presence again.

The day was getting on, but I wanted to make time for Nurseryland. Situated in the west of the park, this is one of the last pieces of true Blackgang in its original location. The models of Humpty Dumpty, The Old Woman Who Lived In A Shoe and The House That Jack Built were exactly how I remembered them. The area is quite sobering though - I looked at the cliff erosion and thought of how so much of the park has crumbled into the sea.



If I’m honest, I feel Blackgang has lost some of its charm. It used to have a kind of gentle magic that’s no longer there to the same extent. Some of that is a stylistic choice. Gone are the Gnome Gardens, lantern-strewn pathways and Water Gardens, replaced by pop music, thrill rides and squirting barrels. The park no longer stays open for illuminations, because there’s not really anything to illuminate.

Some of it, however, is out of Blackgang’s hands. As more and more of the cliff has fallen into the sea, they’ve had to move back onto flatter land. And so, the park is less about descending into wooded valleys, such as the Jungleland and Dinosaurland I loved so many years ago. It’s still good, but it’s good as a theme park, not the clifftop fairyland I remember.

But I don’t want to overstate this, because I really did enjoy my visit. Snakes & Ladders, the Jolly Robin and Waterforce are all excellent, and I ended up having a whale of a time. The staff were very welcoming, and it will always have a special place in my heart.

…​

As I returned to the car, the sky started to grey over, almost as though the weather knew my trip had come to an end. I had enjoyed a perfect holiday full of theme parks, friendly people and spectacular scenery. All I could do was to head on home, and hope I could one day return to this island like no other.

 
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